Getting Started

Kitchen cabinets are functional and aesthetic. The design of the cabinets and the color will create an environment conducive to meal preparation, and entertaining, if so desired. Functionally, the cabinets store the items necessary for food preparation, cooking and eating. When choosing cabinetry, keep in mind the purposes of the room, and the needs and desires of those using the kitchen! Factor in the appliances, their sizes and locations in the area, when deciding on cabinets.

Types

Base cabinets sit on the floor and form the basis for the kitchen — holding the sink, cooktop, and countertop; used for storage or larger items.

Wall cabinets are hung from the wall and function as storage of food and serving pieces or for displays.

Pantry cabinets stand among the appliances or along the wall and are tall for maximum storage.

Framed cabinets are created with a panel, or frame, that covers the framework of the internal box. Door hinges are attached to the frame and cover the opening but leave part of the frame visible.

Frameless cabinets are constructed with maximum accessibility to the internal box. Doors hinges are attached to the inside of the door and the box, making the hinges invisible. 

Styles

Stock cabinets are mass-produced in basic styles and sizes to be combined into configurations that fit the room size and various functions. Styles and colors are limited with units ready to ship or in stock. Most frequently made of particle board or MDF covered with laminate or melamine; they are less expensive. A 34.5-inch height base cabinet is standard; with the countertop installed it will reach about 36-inches high. Widths range from 9-inches to 48-inches, expanding about every 3 inches. Wall cabinets are measured 12-inches high (for installation over the refrigerator or in combination with others), 36-inches and 48-inches high. Widths are sized like base cabinets. Cabinet depths are 24-inches for base cabinets, and 12-inches to 24-inches for wall cabinets. Tall pantry cabinets come in 84-inches high or 96-inches high to fit into a standard 8-foot high room. Widths are 12-inches, 24-inches or 36-inches wide and 12-inches or 24-inches deep.

Semi-Custom cabinets are manufactured for more variation in materials, architectural styles, and sizes. Adjustment in widths, increasing every 1-inch, and depths permit greater design configurations. These include stock cabinets with custom designed doors or accessories. Semi-custom cabinets usually offer more individuality in designing the kitchen.

Custom cabinets are created upon placement of an order on specific sizes, styles, wood and accessories. Custom cabinets are the most expensive since they are made to order. Since they are prepared upon specifications, these must be measured carefully and will take longer for delivery and installation. Hand-crafted, the box and drawer corners will be dove-tailed for strength.

Materials

Particle board: cabinet boxes and shelves may be made with this engineered wood product. Chips and pieces of wood are fused with adhesive and formed into sheets that are cut to be assembled into the box walls and shelves.

MDF: Medium Density Fiberboard is an engineered product of finer wood fibers and adhesive fused to create panels for cabinet doors, box walls and shelves. MDF will be covered with a laminate or melamine for color and texture.

Plywood: Sheets of wood are fused together in various grain directions to provide a strong, wood-grained panel for cabinet doors, box walls and shelves. Plywood can be stained, providing greater variety in usage.

Solid Wood: Using the same wood species, cabinets will be constructed for staining.  One species may be used for the frame and doors, while a lesser expensive species may be used for shelving. The box on cabinets may use a veneer of the wood applied to a lesser wood species or plywood for staining.

Stainless Steel: Offering a unique design, stainless steel cabinets give the impression of a commercial kitchen.

Laminate: A plastic fusing a picture of wood graining or solid color is created into a thin film then applied to the box, drawers and doors of cabinets.

Melamine: A plastic with an image of wood or solid color is fused over particleboard boxes and doors/drawer fronts.

Thermofoil: A thin vinyl film that is fused onto the box, door and drawer substrate of MDF or engineered wood product.

Price Consideration

Construction styles will affect the cost of the cabinets. Corners on the boxes and drawers impact the strength of the cabinets. Joinery methods that permit the pieces to interlock with each other will cost more than stapling or screwing the pieces together.

Custom, Solid Wood will be the most expensive option, with metal such as stainless steel also pricy. Custom with plywood will be less expensive and custom MDF or particleboard even less expensive, but custom cabinets are the most costly of the options. Measuring, specification and installation should be done by a professional because mistakes in any of these areas will be pricy. Units that do not fit properly into the space must be re-made, affecting time and cost on finishing the area. Note the difference in All Wood and Solid Wood. Solid wood says what it means. All Wood can mean engineered wood products, such as plywood, with solid wood on the frame and door/drawer fronts. Prices will vary.

Semi-Custom Wood cabinets are less expensive than custom, but still more so than stock cabinets. Choosing wood for staining will provide for more customization, but melamine or laminate finishes provide an easy-to-clean surface that will stand up to wear and tear. The box, door/drawer finishes will affect the cost as well as the box and drawer construction material.

Stock cabinets are the least expensive in choosing cabinets. Using what is available and incorporating spacer bars to create the layout will produce a quick and easy solution for kitchen design and construction.

Getting Started

A comprehensive guide on what you need to know before choosing the right bathroom countertops and surfaces.

Vanities and cabinetry in bathrooms require surfaces that will stand up to moisture and solutions used by homeowners for their personal hygiene and beauty regime. Also, the surfaces will enhance to the aesthetic of the room’s design.

What to Consider

How many people will use the bathroom? If this is a family bathroom, then the countertops will receive heavy usage for hygiene products and appliances such as hair dryers, etc. If this is a master bathroom with a spa-like atmosphere, fewer people will be piling products onto the surfaces.

When purchasing vanities for the bathrooms, consider if the countertop is already integral to the cabinet.

Depending upon the surface chosen, sinks can be molded into the countertop instead of installed separately.

What is the budget for the bathroom? Countertops can be created from natural stones that will be expensive, or even man-made products that can be costly, or from practical products that will stand up to wear and tear. Professional installation may be required.

Materials

Laminate has been used for generations on bathroom countertops because of its durability, affordability and ease of maintenance. Colors and designs increase with trends. The construction of the laminate product will determine its ability to stand up to heat, scratches, and stains. Nonporous, it is water resistant and does not need maintenance other than cleaning.

Solid Surface materials are a mixture of natural minerals with resins, providing a range of colors and styles. Care should be taken when using heat or acidic products. Solid surface materials are nonporous and durable in a moisture setting. These may be known by brand names such as Corian® or Ceasarstone®, or Cultured Marble, Cultured Granite, which then identifies the mineral used in the composition. Easy to clean, these products require little maintenance and can be repaired if necessary.

Quartz is a man-made material of crushed quartz stone mixed in a resin. Created in a variety of colors and designs, quartz countertops can look like stone without the need for sealing and maintenance. Quartz is nonporous and easy to maintain and clean. Quartz can be heavy and may require additional support if the countertop is large.

Granite is a natural stone with warm colors that may contain veins. If more than one piece is needed, the veins will not match up in the design. Granite will be sealed and will require resealing to maintain its stain and water resistance. Heavy, granite will require professional installation.

Marble is a natural stone often used for vanity tops. White is the most popular color but marble will contain veins that will not match during installation. If short run pieces are needed, this is not a problem. As a soft stone, marble will require sealing and resealing to provide moisture and stain resistance. Marble provides a warm, generous feeling to the bathroom countertop and will require professional installation.

Soapstone is a natural stone that is ideally suited for use in the bathroom. Nonporous, it will not require sealing, but it is softer so scratches or nicks will show if not sanded out. Soapstone is available in a range of colors and patterns; professional installation will be required.

Cost Considerations

Material chosen will be the largest impact on the budget as it will change from laminate to natural stone.

    •  Laminate is the least expensive of the materials choices and does not require maintenance.

    •  Solid Surfaces can be as expensive as natural stones, such as granite. Manufacturers priced them to compete with stone because the nonporous nature eliminates the sealing and maintenance.

    •  Quartz competes with granite in costs, but does not require sealing or maintenance.

    •  Granite not only requires sealing, but professional installation

    •  Marble is highly sought after and will need sealing and maintenance.

Length of the countertop is then the next largest consideration.

Installation, if requiring a professional, should be factored into the budget.

Maintenance also is a consideration as the natural stones will need resealing periodically depending upon the usage. If in a family bathroom, more frequent sealing will be necessary.

Getting Started

Countertops are one of the major investments in the kitchen. These surfaces will receive abuse from food preparation, cooking, entertaining, and even eating. Plus, they are one of the most visible features of the kitchen and will enhance the ambiance of the room.

What to Consider

What type of activities will be done on the surface? Food preparation, hot pots from the stove or oven placed on top? Will seating be included and food served or beverages during entertaining. The amount and type of liquids and solids to be dealt with on the surface will have an impact upon which surfaces should be chosen in which area of the kitchen. Island surfaces with cooktops or sinks may be different from island surfaces for seating and enjoying the food prepared.

Depending upon the surface chosen, sinks can be molded into the countertop instead of installed separately. Drains may be carved into the material or chopping blocks fitted within.

Edge Styles will change the look of the countertop. Depending upon the material chosen, a variety of edge styles are available. Consider the cabinetry design and style of the kitchen when choosing the edge.

What is the budget for the kitchen? Countertops can be created from natural stones that will be expensive, or even man-made products that can be costly, or from practical products that will stand up to wear and tear.

Professional installation will be required for several materials.  A template will be made mapping out the area, noting the spaces for cooktops and sinks. The template is the pattern the fabricator or stonecutter will use to create the countertop. This step adds to the time needed to install the countertop.

Reinforcement of floor supports may be needed for some natural stones if used extensively throughout the kitchen.

Materials

Laminate has been used for generations on bathroom countertops because of its durability, affordability and ease of maintenance. Colors and designs increase with trends. The construction of the laminate product will determine its ability to stand up to heat, scratches, and stains. Nonporous, it is water resistant and does not need maintenance other than cleaning.

Solid Surface materials are a mixture of natural minerals with resins, providing a range of colors and styles. Care should be taken when using heat or acidic products. Solid surface materials are nonporous and durable in a moisture setting. These may be known by brand names such as Corian®, Silestone® or Ceasarstone®. Easy to clean, these products require little maintenance and can be repaired if necessary.

Quartz is a man-made material of crushed quartz stone mixed in a resin. Created in a variety of colors and designs, quartz countertops can look like stone without the need for sealing and maintenance. Quartz is nonporous and easy to maintain and clean. Quartz can be heavy and may require additional support if the countertop is large.

Granite is a natural stone with warm colors that may contain veins. If more than one piece is needed, the veins will not match up in the design. Granite will be sealed and will require resealing to maintain its stain and water resistance. Heavy, granite may require additional structural support if used in large pieces and will require professional installation.

Marble and Travertine are natural stones often used for countertops. White is the most popular color but marble will contain veins that will not match during installation. If short run pieces are needed, this is not a problem. As a soft stone, marble will require sealing and resealing to provide moisture and stain resistance. Marble provides a warm, generous feeling to the kitchen countertop and will require professional installation.

Soapstone is a natural stone that that comes in shades of gray to black and is often used for kitchen countertops. Nonporous, it will not require sealing, but it is softer so scratches or nicks will show if not sanded out. Due to its softer nature, Soapstone can be carved with water draining channels around a sink, or cut to allow a chopping block to be set into the countertop. Soapstone is available in a range of colors and patterns; professional installation will be required.

Wood block countertops work well on islands used for food preparation. Maple, Red Oak, or Cherry are the most frequently used woods. Created with end grain strips or planks. Zebrawood is an African hardwood with a dark grain for adding drama to the kitchen. Even bamboo, when cut with end grain showing, offers an interesting design for butcherblock counters.

Stainless Steel is nonporous and resistant to all types of liquid spills, stains, and bacteria. Heat resistant, hot pots can be placed directly upon the surface. When it comes to scratches, stainless steel is not immune, but consistent use will provide a patina on the shiny surface and scratches become part of the allure. Dents can be a problem if the surface is not installed properly; a professional will fit the steel tightly to a wood substrate, which will reduce any visual dents. Stainless steel is bright and shiny, offering a particular attraction for some homeowners.

Concrete can be poured into any shaped mold and tinted with a wide variety of colors to produce countertops. Poured in place, the finished product has a unique look as it is finished smooth or with textured surfaces.

Tiles of Ceramic or Porcelain may be laid into a form to create a countertop. Once frequently used, tile countertops are not popular at this time due to the grout lines trapping liquids, stains, and bacteria.  Tiles can chip and crack if pots are dropped on them; tiles are not easily replaced in this setting. While tiles can create an interesting surface, consider hygiene when making this choice.

Cost Considerations

Material costs are the greatest portion of the budget.

    •  Laminate is priced by the square foot, plus the cost of the backsplash if using the same countertop material will be priced by the linear foot is the least expensive of the solid material options. Prices are about half of the other materials.   

    •  Quartz is comparable Granite and is the top of the line of manufactured surfaces

    •  Granite is an affordable stone for countertops and surfaces and is comparable in costs to Quartz and Soapstone.

    •  Soapstone is comparable in price to Quartz and Granite.

    •  Marble and Travertine are beautiful stones and that is reflected in the price. Within the Marble and Travertine family, prices can range due to where the stone comes from.

    •  Wood block will be priced based in the size and type of wood used. More affordable than stone or Quartz or Solid Surfacing.

    •  Stainless steel can be compared to Quartz, Granite or Soapstone, depending on the gauge of the steel. The lower the gauge, the thicker the metal; Residential use gauge should be between 16 and 18; 14 gauge is used in commercial kitchens. Prices are based on the thickness of the metal and the finish.

    •  Concrete costs will be based on pouring in place or cast and shipped. Concrete countertops will be more expensive than most materials, other than the Marble family.

    •  Tiles of Ceramic or Porcelain are the least expensive and are based on the cost of each tile.    •  Solid Surface will range in price depending upon the manufacturer and the quality of the products used to create the material.
 

Edge styles will change the cost of the countertop with more intricate designs demanding an upcharge.

Maintenance costs will add to the budget over the lifetime of the surface. Natural stones must be sealed and resealed in the kitchen. Constant use will reduce the stone’s ability to resist water or stains. Drip water onto the surface; if it beads, the seal is still good. If the bead spreads out over the surface, it is time to reseal.

Installation costs must be considered. Laminate, Quartz and Solid Surfacing is less expensive to install while natural stones and concrete will be more expensive due to time and weight.•  Weight of the material may necessitate structural supports and must be considered when choosing the countertop.

Getting Started

A functional aspect of the kitchen, faucets supply water to the cleaning and cooking areas of the room. Once, a single unit would suffice; faucets now are added to a variety of spaces and are designed for specific purposes. Also, since the faucet is often one of the most visible pieces of hardware, they are available in a wide range of styles to coordinate with the architectural style of cabinets, and a variety of metals and colors.

What to Consider

Holes: The number of holes in the sink will determine the faucet configuration. Sinks will have between one and five holes drilled into them to accommodate the faucet, handles, spray, soap dispensers, etc. If a new faucet is installed in an existing sink, the number of holes and configuration has an impact upon the faucet. A deck plate can be purchased to cover the holes, if a single handle unit is desired. If the sink is installed with the faucet, the sink can be chosen to accept the faucet, or the countertop can be cut to fit.

Purpose: If cleaning or filling tall pots is a function, a tall faucet will be desired.  If a prep sink needs a faucet, a pull-out or shorter faucet may accommodate.

Lifestyle: If cooking is a family activity and several generations of the family will be using the faucets and sink, consider the ages and height of the family members. Wall units are interesting, but may not be reached by the very young or the older generation. If the individuals using the faucets are older, install an ADA appropriate type of handle, such as a lever or touch-activated faucet.

Space: Counter space often is a premium. Several space saving options are available, such as wall-mounted faucets. Shelving or a cabinet over the sink may limit the height of the faucet to be used.

Architectural Style: Faucets are available in a variety of styles and designs, so purchase one that coordinates with the room style.

Types

Pull-Out/Pull-Down Spray Kitchen Faucets are multi-functional and workhorses of the kitchen.  The faucet head pulls out/down to reach the full sink, or fill pots next to the sink. The spray function can be changed from stream to light spray for filling pots or to clean vegetables or rinsing good crystal. One to two hole units are available and will depend on the handle design.

Single Handle Faucets work well on a sink fitted into a tight space. The handle is set on the spout and twists side to side from hot to cold. If the sink has more than one hole, but this type of faucet is desired, look for one with an optional deck plate to cover the other hole(s), or a spray can be inserted into one of the additional holes. Easy to use for older homeowners and children, the faucets are designed for modern and contemporary styles.

Two Handle Faucets are designed for using each handle to moderate the hot and cold water from the faucet. 8-Inch Widespread faucets are created for sinks with three predrilled holes 8-inches apart and are available with or without a deck plate. A coordinating spray can be added. Designed for traditional looking kitchens.

Wall-Mounted Faucets are installed on the wall above the sink, not through the counter or the sink. The pipes supplying the water must be run through the wall higher than the sink and not underneath the counter so best installed during new construction or renovation. When deciding on a spout, make sure it is long enough to reach over the sink for the water to run into the drain. Provides an antique look for that style kitchen.

Pot-Filler Faucets are installed next to or over the cooktop/range to provide cold water directly to pots, eliminating the need to carry heavy pots from the sink to the stove. Single handle on an articulating neck, which folds out of the way when not in use, these faucets are installed in professional-style kitchens of serious cooks. Available in a variety of styles, from industrial to antique.

Motion or Touch Activated faucets are available on a faucet sets and are pre-set for the water temperature. Activated by touching the spout or waving the hands underneath the spout, which provides a germ-free environment. An electrical hook-up is necessary to operate these.

Bar/Prep Sink Faucets are coordinated with the main faucet set and deliver water to a bar or prep sink, which often are smaller. One-hole to three-hole configurations,  these may be single handle or two handle sets.

Water Filter faucets can coordinate with the main faucet and will deliver cold water from a water filtration system mounted under the sink or from a room below. Usually single handle.

Construction and Maintenance

Valves:  The operational portion of the faucet, stopping water flow.

    •  Compression valves employ a rubber washer to control the water flow. These washers are easy to replace.

    •  Ball valves use a ball to control the water flow on single handle faucets. Be careful that the ball is metal, such as stainless steel, as plastic balls will require replacing. The stainless ball is guaranteed for life and, if that guarantee is included with the faucet, the manufacturer will replace the metal ball for free should a problem arise.

    •  Cartridge valves will last a long time, and the seals, which last from five to 10 years, are replaceable easily by a homeowner.

    •  Ceramic disk valves should last 20 years to 50 years — the disks rub against each other to control the water flow. Ceramic technology is such that these rarely malfunction.

Faucet Body:  Brass is the traditional material for creating faucets and with its copper content, it is mold and mildew resistant. Other metals and plastic may be used, but these are rather inexpensive units and may not have the same life expectancy, requiring replacement.

Finishes:  Kitchen faucets are available in a wide array of finishes from brass, bronze, chrome, nickel to even copper. These finishes may be polished to a high gloss or brushed to hide fingerprints and water spots, or even antiqued. Finishes are sprayed on and then baked at high temperatures to reduce flaking and scratches.

Cost Considerations

Type:  Touch activated and motion sense faucets are more expensive and will require the expense of an electrical hook-up.  

Construction:  All brass bodies are more expensive than other metals and plastic.

Finishes:  Depending upon the finish, a higher cost is demanded.

Brands:  Various brands have earned reputations in the industry and their products are perceived as higher quality, thereby garnering a higher price.

Maintenance:  Lowest cost products will be need replacing and maintenance more frequently than moderately priced products. If the budget only permits the lowest priced product, just note that maintenance will be an issue.

Installation:  Some building codes will require a licensed plumber perform installations, depending upon the product and the complexity of the installation.

Getting Started

Utilitarian primarily, kitchen sinks also can add beauty to the room with style and color. Due to the popularity of stainless steel appliances, stainless steel sinks are very popular, but sinks of other materials can complement the kitchen and perform well for cleaning — whether pots and pans or vegetables and fruits.

What to Consider

Functionality: Created for cleaning a multitude of food stuffs and appliances, the kitchen sink should be deep and large enough to wash your largest pots and pans. Usually created between 6-inches and 12-inches deep, the length of the sink should handle your roaster all at once.

Purpose: If the sink will be used as a prep workstation, such as in an island, then look for designs that will accommodate accessories for straining, or chopping foods.  A double sink of various depths may work best in this area of the kitchen.

Style: Kitchen sinks are created in myriad designs, from the basic rectangle to units with integral drainboards. The design should complement the cabinets and appliances.

Lifetsyle: Manufactured in a variety of materials, kitchen sinks should stand up to the uses demanded of them. If children participate in cooking and/or cleaning duties, consider the depth of the sink. Created from 6-inches deep up to as much as as 12-inch deep sink, the latter will be difficult for shorter individuals to reach into. Consider 7-plus to 9-plus inch depths for family use. 

Cabinet Size: The length and depth of base cabinet into which the sink is situated will also have an impact upon the size of the sink. The faucet location will take up some of the countertop and base cabinet space, so choose the faucet set when choosing the sink.

Maintenance: Different manufacturers will recommend maintenance measures. Some materials require regular maintenance; others require less.

Budget: Quality, size and styles will have an impact upon the budget. Purchase the best quality for the budget.

Material

Stainless Steel is the most popular material for kitchen sinks due to the strength and corrosion resistance created by adding chromium and nickel to the steel alloy.  Look for a ratio of 18:8 chromium to nickel or 20:10 — the higher the number the better quality of the stainless steel. Stainless steel is pore-free, recyclable, and durable. Manufactured in a variety of gauges— the lower the number the thicker the metal—to reduce dents and dings. An undercoating will deaden noise and reduce condensation. The thicker the gauge and the thicker the undercoating, the more expensive. Add sound deadening pads and the price increases.

    •  16-gauge is the highest quality regularly manufactured sinks. Available in a range of sizes and styles, sinks will include a high-end sound deadening system.

    •  18-gauge is the most popular thickness for high-quality sinks. A broad range of sizes and styles are available from a variety of manufacturers. Look for a fine finish and a very good sound deadening system.

    •  20-gauge and 22-gauge sinks are lower quality and may not resist dings and dents.

    •  Mirror finishes will show water stains and mars from cleaning.

    •  Brushed finishes are less likely to show water spots and scratches.

Cast Iron sinks are created by baking an enamel top-coat on an iron mold that often contains up to 80 percent recycled material to produce the iron alloy.  This results in a non-porous, durable finish that accepts heat well and is stain resistant. The enamel finish may chip if heavy items are dropped inside, causing the iron below to rust. Easy to clean, the finish does not show water spots or streaks and requires little maintenance. Cast iron sinks are available in a wide range of styles and colors to complement any kitchen design.

Composite sinks are produced by mixing crushed granite or quartz with resin and molding the mixture under high pressure into a variety of sizes and styles for use in the kitchen. Nonporous, composite sinks resist stains, scratches and dents, but they are so strong they make cause glasses to break if dropped into them. The color is found throughout the material. Manufacturer’s instructions must be followed for care and cleaning as some chemicals can damage composite sinks. Also, some may be affected by high heat from pots placed on the surface.

Fireclay is produced by firing porcelain enamel onto a molded ceramic clay shape. The process takes a long period and high temperatures to create the sink, which then is strong and durable. Most often used for apron sinks due to the beauty and strength of the front edge of the sink.  Easy to maintain and clean since the enamel surface is non-porous.

Acrylic sinks are molded polycarbonate plastic reinforced with fiberglass to create a variety of sizes and styles. With the color throughout, minor scratches can be scrubbed or sanded out. Non-porous, acrylic is stain resistant. Since it is plastic, heat will damage it and deep scratches will show up and reduce the life of the sink.Natural Stone sinks of soapstone, granite, and marble are made for use in the kitchen. These may be carved out of the stone and created most frequently as apron sinks so the beauty of the stone is visible or as prep sinks.

Soapstone is non-porous and strong so it is stain and even acid resistant. Hot pots will not damage the stone. Soapstone is available in shades of black and gray for use in classic or even modern homes. Easy to clean, soapstone sinks are created in a variety of shapes and styles, although most frequently in apron front designs.

Granite sinks will be heavy and require additional supports in the base cabinet. If granite is used as the countertop, a sink can be fabricated from the same material.  Seal the stone for maintenance.

Marble also produces a beautiful sink that when sealed will last a long time. Wipe stains right away and use a scrubbing pad on acids for cleaning. Regular sealing will maintain the beauty of the marble.

Copper kitchen sinks produce a look like no other metal or material. The nature of the copper eliminates bacteria from the surface.  Created in several finishes, such as polished, hammered, antique, copper sinks are available in a variety of styles, most often apron or prep sinks.

Types

Undermount sinks provide a clean sweep from the countertop. The unit is fitted underneath the counter with an edgeless finish. Used most frequently with granite, composite, wood and solid surface counters.

Topmount sinks are manufactured with a rim that extends over the countertop. Easy to install, the topmount sink will be drilled with holes to accommodate the faucet set.

Apron front sinks are often called farmhouse sinks as they were found as workhourses in older homes. The sink offers a large bowl for cleaning pots and pans.

Single Bowl sinks may be rectangular or rounded corners from six-inches to 12-inches deep. The drain hole may be centered, or off to a side or back to provide more workspace in the basin. As large as 33-inches, a single bowl sink usually fits a standard base cabinet of 25-1/2 inches by 36-inches. Several styles are available to accommodate faucet alignment.

Double Bowl sinks offer separate spaces for different tasks, such as preparing vegetables and washing up utensils. The bowls may have two different depths and sizes. May be as large as 48-inches long.

Triple Bowl sinks require a large base cabinet as they can run up to 60-inches long. Two larger bowls will sandwich a smaller prep sink. Bowls may be different depths and sizes.

Prep sinks may be round, rectangular, topmount or undermount but will be smaller and not as deep, usually in the 6-inch range.

Accessories

Colanders and drain baskets are designed to fit across the sink to drain fruits or vegetable or even small dishes.

Wooden Cutting Boards are created to fit within the sink, sometimes on a lip designed into the sink to hold the cutting board above the basin bottom.

Bottom grids fit into the bottom of the sink to protect the surface and provide a cushion for utensils and dishes.

Roller mats fit over the sink to provide more workspace.

Cost Considerations

Materials will impact the cost of the sink, especially stone and copper.

    •  Stainless steel ranges depending upon the gauge and the sound suppression material, and size.

    •  Cast Iron can range slightly more than stainless steel depending upon size and style.

    •  Acrylic is the least expensive and again varies due to size and style

    •  Composite range slightly more than the lowest grade stainless steel and again will vary due to size and style

    •  Fireclay is one of the more expensive materials and again will vary with size and style.

    •  Natural Stone is expensive due to the nature of the stone and way it is prepared.

    •  Copper is one of the more expensive sinks ranging due to size and style.

Sizes: Larger sinks cost more than simple, single bowl sinks. Double bowls are often more costly than single bowls, with Triple Bowl even more so.

Types

    •  Topmount usually cost less than Undermount.

    •  Apron front sinks are more expensive due to the amount of material needed to create the sink and the detail required.

Installation by a plumber will add to the expense. Some municipalities will require installation by a professional and an inspection from the building department, especially if the drain or water pipes are being moved in a retrofit. Check local building codes if the size or location of the sink is involved.

Accessories will increase the cost, and sinks designed to accept accessories may cost more due to the design.

Getting Started

Hardware for cabinets and drawers too frequently is an after thought. But, the hardware will enhance and improve — or detract — from the overall look of the room. Update or complete a room design by changing or choosing handles, knobs and hinges that make a statement.

What to Consider

Style of the cabinets/drawers will have an impact on the style of the hardware. Bring a cabinet or drawer front when choosing the hardware.

Color or Finish of the hardware should coordinate or complement the finish and color of the cabinets/drawers.  Appliances and faucets may coordinate with the hardware, also, to provide a desired effect. Some manufacturers create families of pulls and hinges for ease of coordination.

Size and Weight of the cabinet door or drawer may affect the size and type of pulls and will affect the number of hinges for doors. A large, solid wood cabinet door will require substantial hinges in size and number.

CTC (center-to-center measurement) — when replacing hardware on existing cabinets/drawers, know the center-to-center measurement. The length from one pre-existing hole to the other is called CTC (center-to-center) measure. Most frequently, the length is 3-inches, but some may be three and three-quarter inches up to even five inches. Longer lengths are available but uncommon. If the design chosen for the new look is not available in the pre-existing CTC, a complementary back plate may be purchased separately to cover the holes; one or two new holes must be drilled to accommodate the new hardware.

Timeframe— if refitting a door with new pulls or knobs, know that some materials or styles may have to be ordered, and may delay a project. The same with new cabinets, but ordering the hardware with the cabinetry should result in a simultaneous delivery.

Installation into pre-existing holes will require a screwdriver. If a new hole is required, use the upper pre-existing hole and drill the new hole down the cabinet door. Creating a template will be necessary for installation on new doors so each pull or knob is at the same height across the length of cabinets or is centered on a drawer. If using a back plate, use the pre-existing hole and mark the new hole with a pencil before drilling.

Budget counts! Know how many pulls or knobs, hinges, drawer slides, etc. are needed to factor the total cost for the budget.

Knobs and Pulls

Knobs are installed with one screw into the door or drawer front. Styles of knobs range from round, to elongated planes, to a variety of shapes — even animals, fish, shells, etc. Available in sizes from one inch to two inches to fit small to large hands and in materials for traditional to contemporary styling, knobs may be metal — polished, satin finish or hammered — glass, crystal, and ceramic.

Pulls are available in a variety of shapes, sizes, and materials.

    •  Bar pulls are straight or arched raised bars installed vertically or horizontally using two screws.  On drawers, usually installed in the center; on doors, along the front corner for ease of opening. Bars may be easier to grasp, and range from 3-inches, 3 ¾ inches, 4-inches, and 5-inches. Longer bar pulls are available and are used most often in contemporary styles.

    •  Cup pulls are full arches created for fingers curl up underneath for ease of use.  Situated horizontally in the center or drawer fronts, or on the opening corner of doors.

    •  Ring pulls contain a ring that is lifted to pull the door/drawer open. Ring pulls may contain an integrated faceplate or a simple knob-like attachment that accepts one or two screws.

Faceplates are designed to cover pre-existing holes or for design elements with knobs and pulls. Faceplates are created out of several types of materials, usually a metal such as brass or pewter, and in a range of styles.

Hinges

Hinges hold the cabinet doors to the cabinet box. Hinges may be hidden, or mounted on the exterior as a design element. Knobs/pulls and hinges should complement each other.  The number of hinges required is based on the size and weight of the door. Minimally, two hinges will be needed; larger cabinets may need three or four, up to five for full-size pantry doors. When choosing hinges it is important to understand how the door fits the cabinet, and how wide the door will open. A door that overlays the framed cabinet is mounted differently from a door that fits within the opening of the frame or cabinet box.

    •  Traditional (butt) hinges contain two plates that are attached to the door and cabinet box or frame and a barrel around which the plates rotate. Traditional hinges are installed on cabinets with frames around the box.

    •  Euro-type hinges are installed on frameless cabinet boxes and consist of a cup attached to the door and a plate attached to the box connected by an adjustable arm.

    •  Exposed (Surface-Mount) hinges are used on the outside of the door and cabinet and are visible when the door is closed.

    •  Partially concealed hinge is mounted on the door and cabinet frame so the barrel is visible.

    •  Concealed hinges are installed on the inside of the door and cabinet box so they are not visible.

    •  Self-Closing hinges pull the door to the closed position when the door is within a few inches of the box.

Drawer Slides

Drawer Slides are the hardware used to extend the drawer from the cabinet box. The slides may use ball bearing, roller ball or friction fits, or a combination of these. When choosing slides, understand the weight of the drawer with its contents, the depth of the drawer and the amount of space from the drawer sides to the inside of the cabinet.

Weight:

    •  Light Duty slides hold up to 75 lbs., which is usual for residential drawers.

    •  Medium Duty slides will carry from 75 lbs. to 100 lbs., which is heavy residential usage.

    •  Heavy Duty slides hold 100 lbs. to 150 lbs., which most frequently are file drawers or storage drawers.

Slide Types:

    •  Side Mount slides are installed along the center of the drawer sides and interior of the cabinet. Available in a range of lengths to accommodate drawer depths and in a range of weight duties, the side mount slide will be visible when the drawer is pulled open.

    •  Center Mount drawer slide is a single railing installed under the center of the drawer.  It is used for very light duty drawers.

    •  Undermount slides are installed underneath the drawer on the outside edges. Efficient for Medium duty drawers, the slides are not visible when the drawer is open.

    •  European Mount slides attach to the bottom sides of the drawer and cabinet interior. Rated for medium duty drawers, the slides are visible but not obvious. They are low cost and easy to install.

Disconnect:

To remove the drawer from the cabinet, several methods are available with the slide systems:

    •  A Lever inside the slide to will disconnect the drawer.

    •  A Rail Latch permits removal of the drawer from the cabinet.

    •  Friction disconnect use is accomplished by pulling the drawer all the way through the slide.

Travel:

The distance the drawer extends from the cabinet; either ¾ extension or full extension. The length of the slide will determine the drawer’s extension.  Make sure there is enough distance from other cabinetry or appliances for the extension.

Price Considerations

Styles and Materials will have an impact on the cost of the hardware. Unique or rare metal pulls, knobs or hinges will be priced higher than stainless steel bar pulls. Add designs or carved materials, and the price will increase.

Size always matters. Larger pulls, hinges and drawer slides cost more as more material is needed to manufacture them.

Drawer Slides of ball bearings cost more than roller or friction types. European mount usually lower in cost as are Center Mount single slides.

Installation by a professional will factor into the budget. On pre-existing cabinets and drawers, choosing new pulls of the same size will create a different look, but can be easily installed with a screwdriver and will save on drilling new holes, purchasing faceplates to cover the old holes, or hiring a professional installer.

Getting Started

When choosing flooring, consider the amount of traffic on the surface and the style of the room. Also, take into consideration the ambiance to be created by the material used and the color chosen.

Wood & Engineered Wood Flooring

Hardwood Flooring adds an aesthetic desired by many homeowners and adds value to a house. Depending upon the space and location in which it is installed will determine which type of wood flooring should be used. While hardwood flooring can be used almost anywhere, moisture levels of the room may require additional consideration during installation. Solid wood will expand and contract with changes of temperature and moisture — always bring the flooring into the room three days prior to installation so the planks can acclimate to the room’s environment.

All hardwood floors require a finish to protect the surface against daily wear. Finishes can be done after installation in the building, or in the factory prior to installation. Choose to finish it on site if trying to match an existing floor or if a specific color is to be achieved. Factory finished flooring takes less time to install as it is ready for traffic immediately.

Hardwood floors come in a variety of species and range in thicknesses of ¾-inch to 5/16-inch. Wood can be installed above or on grade. And can be sanded and refinished several times during its lifetime. Wood floors are installed over a subfloor. Above grade usually calls for plywood subflooring while below grade and basements will have concrete. But a moisture barrier may be necessary over concrete.  Always check manufacturer’s warranty.

Hardwood planks will range in widths, which create specialized designs in the room. The wider the width, the more of the wood graining is visible.  Hardwood flooring is also the most expensive and will vary due to species, plank style and width, and installation methods.

Wood species vary from domestic to exotic. Choosing the species will be determined by taste, design required, and budget. Several domestic woods range in color, such as yellow oak or red oak, and the grain in the plank will be determined by the cut at the mill. Exotic woods may deepen in color as exposed to sunlight in the room. And surface texture may be smooth, distressed, scraped or wirebrushed. Consider all of the above when choosing the plank prior to installation.

Engineered Wood is manufactured from wood veneers that are varied in grain directions to provide more stability and strength. The same wood species may be used throughout, or several species may be incorporated into the plank.  Since this is more stable, engineered wood can be used below grade on concrete without significant expansion or contraction. Finished in the factory, Engineered Wood Flooring may be sanded and refinished — depending upon the thickness of the top veneer. Check the manufacturer’s directions.

Engineered Wood flooring is less expensive than solid wood due to its construction — less of the wood species — and will vary in cost depending upon the species in the top wood layer.

Laminate Flooring

Laminate Flooring provides a less expensive and very durable alternative to real wood. While it may look like natural wood and even have a texture of graining, laminate flooring actually provides a picture of wood, marble, stone, tile, etc, protected by a layer of a durable clear top sheet, on top of a high density fiberboard (HDF) core, and melamine base layer to provide stability. Because of its strength and durability, and look and feel of the real material it is imitating, laminate flooring is popular in rooms where the actual material may not be appropriate due to moisture or cost.                                        

Manufacturers have developed beautiful photography of real exotic woods, with a variety of graining, or stones such as marble and granite. The top aluminum oxide layer can be smooth, grained, embossed, pebbled or high gloss.  Installed as a “floating” system, the laminate planks, squares or tiles lock into each other and not onto a subfloor. An underlayment may be used to soften the feeling of the flooring, or reduce noise from one room to another next door or below. If installing over concrete, a moisture barrier may be required. Laminate Flooring is easy to install, and to change. Just pick it up, and even move it into another room…

Vinyl Flooring

Vinyl Flooring is known as Resilient Flooring, to distinguish it from the vinyl flooring of 50 years ago. Using advanced technologies, vinyl flooring is an affordable option for use in high traffic areas where durability and moisture resistance are important. It can be installed over existing floors. Available in a range of prices, vinyl flooring is manufactured as Printed Vinyl — a paper picture of the materials to be imitated is placed over a vinyl layer and topped by several protective layers of vinyl or urethane; or as Inlaid Vinyl — color and design is achieved by placing vinyl pieces on a backing, and pushing them up into the wear surface. Inlaid Vinyl is a more durable material, thicker, with the color all the way through the material, reducing scratches and chips from being seen.

Vinyl is sold as sheets, planks or tiles:

    •  Full Vinyl Sheet is laid down and cut to room size, around cabinets and closets, etc. If the sheet does not completely cover the width or length of the room, a seam may be required. By displacing the air under the vinyl flooring, it lies loosely on top of the subfloor or existing floor. Easy to install, it requires no glue or adhesive. The fiberglass backing on the sheet provides durability and moisture resistance, so it is an affordable option in bathrooms, kitchens, laundry rooms, etc.

    • Luxury Vinyl Tiles (LVT) are prepared with a photograph sandwiched between layers of vinyl and clear urethane. Manufactured in a variety of sizes and styles, these tiles/planks will mimic wood or stone. Glued to a subfloor or existing, clean floor — except over ceramic tiles. They may come pre-glued or require a glue basecoat over the subfloor. Tiles mimicking stone may be grouted to provide a more authentic look.

    • Planks will come in a variety of widths and lengths.

Tile Flooring

Tile flooring usually is sold in squares of 12” by 12” or larger and is set with grout to a subflooring. Tiles can be fired, as in ceramic or porcelain, glazed or unglazed, or natural stones cut to shape for setting on the floor. Tile flooring is rated for strength — so it will not chip or crack — for use in wet areas and for slip resistance. ANSI standards are met by most manufacturers, but check with manufacturers test labels for proper usage before purchasing tiles for flooring. Slip-resistance, water absorption, strength, and amount of traffic will affect the choice of tile.

    • Ceramic tiles are made from natural clays and minerals mined from the earth. Before firing, the material is formed, shaped and colored. Unglazed, such as terra cotta, will have the natural color all the way through. Glazed tiles can be created with a variety of colors and designs over a natural red or white body.

    • Porcelain tiles are made from soft paste clays mixed with minerals and fired at higher temperatures. Making the paste, which holds its shape more consistently,  provides a material that is less porous, denser, and better at moisture resistance. Because porcelain is denser than ceramic, it is more difficult to cut, but these factors make it more versatile for usage indoors and outdoors.

    • Glazed porcelain tiles are even better at resisting moisture and staining. The microscopic pores are filled and sealed by the glaze. Unglazed porcelain tiles are consistently colored throughout making chips and cracks are less visible. Also, unglazed porcelain has a better slip-resistance.

    • Stone tiles are created by cutting natural stones—marble, granite, slate, limestone, onyx, etc— into shapes, such as 12” by 12” inches or even larger. These tiles retain the natural beauty of the stone but will show variations in color in the stone. 

Carpet

Carpet flooring offers benefits not found in other flooring materials. Softer, it adds cushioning to footsteps. Due to its construction, it has a comfort level not found elsewhere; carpet also provides insulation and noise softening between the floors and rooms of a structure. Because carpets require a cushion and adhesive in construction and installation, the Carpet and Rug Institute tests the materials for indoor air quality. The Green Label Plus is a test for Volatile Organic Compounds and their level of emissions in use.

Maintenance:  Regular vacuuming, immediate stain removal, and periodic shampooing will retain most carpet fibers for years if not decades.  When choosing carpeting, consider:

    •  Room foot traffic

    •  Amount of sunlight that will reach the carpet

    •  Style of the room and color

    •  Life of the carpet

    •  Size of room and amount of carpet required

    •  Padding and installation costs

    •  Budget   

Terms to understand:
    •  Fiber is the material used to create the carpet. Several different fibers may be twisted together and then woven into the backing.

    •  Pile is the height of the fiber when cut or woven.

    •  Twist is the number of times the fibers are turned in a 1-inch height of pile.

    •  Textures are the style of weaving, whether loop, cut, or twisted.

    •  Density is the closeness of the fibers to each other in the woven pattern. The higher the density, the more durable and expensive the carpet.

    •  Face weight records the ounces of surface fiber in one yard of carpet. The higher the number, the higher the quality. Total weight includes the backing and adhesive weight.

Construction methods are important to the life and quality of carpeting. Many carpets are created by punching the fiber through a backing, which then is finished by gluing another backing to the finished product. Backings are usually webs or plastic weaves; foam rubber backings may be found on indoor/outdoor carpeting or inexpensive kitchen carpets.  Weaving fibers on a loom with a jute backing, but these are the most expensive options and used mainly for wool.

Fibers:
    •  Nylon is sold based on its strength, resiliency, long life, and ability to hold colors. Use in high traffic areas as it retains its pile and is easy to clean. Nylon is the most expensive of the synthetic fibers.

    • Soft Nylon refers to the gauge of the fiber — thinner, providing a softer feel — so more fibers are woven into the backing. Due to the amount of fibers needed, these soft nylon products are more expensive. Due to the softer fiber, footprints and vacuum marks may be more visible. Also, some manufacturers require specific vacuums be used.

   • Polyester now is made of PET — recycled plastic containers — and performs better than the former polyester product. Stain resistant, and a higher abrasion resistance, PET fiber has about 50 percent of the residential carpet market. The fibers hold their twist better, produce a face weight of 40 ounces or more and have a higher melting point.  Less expensive than nylon or soft nylon.

   • Triexta is a polyester version, although it contains corn glucose so it is considered more environmentally friendly.  Softer than nylon and polyester due to its chemical make-up, it holds its shape, even in shag pile.

    • Olefin (Polypropylene) is the most color-fast synthetic, and stain resistant, but does not have a good record of holding its pile, except when cut exceedingly short. Great used for indoor/outdoor carpet. Considered a less expensive fiber.

    •  Wool makes an excellent and expensive carpet. Providing a soft look with its superior tuft, wool is naturally soil, stain, static, and fire resistant. It holds its pile well and is long lasting.

Pile:
    •  Cut and Loop pile provides a pattern in the fibers by cutting some and leaving others looped. This pattern disguises footprint
and vacuuming patterns and provides a sculpture appearance.

    • Cut pile can be accomplished in a smooth finish or textured. The height of the cut and the density of the fiber will determine the appearance and style. Velvet or Plush are denser weaves with a lower profile. These should not be used in high traffic areas as they will show footprints. Textured Plush is a dense weave with a patterned cut, which hides footprints so it is used in heavy traffic areas. Friezé produces a textured surface as the fibers consist of a high twist, minimizes footprints. Saxony fibers have a soft twist and may be straight cut or at an angle. The classic pile, it works well in most rooms, but can be considered to have less “personality” than other piles. Shag pile with its longer cut and lower twist in the fibers is realizing a resurgence.

    • Loop pile is the original form of the woven carpet. The height of the loops provides the pattern, either and creates the look of the carpet. Berber is the most popular form of this pile, which is often used in high traffic areas, such as family rooms. Consider the height of the loop, though, as toys, furniture, and mechanicals can snag loops. This pile hides foot traffic the best.

Carpet Padding and Cushioning

When buying carpeting, the padding is an important component and must considered in the purchase and installation costs. Padding protects the carpet backing from rubbing on the subfloor and deteriorating. Also, the fibers will bounce back into shape more quickly with padding, extending the life of the carpet. Maintenance of the carpet is enhanced by the padding, permitting dirt that settles into the pile to be lifted out more easily with air circulation under the carpet.

Thicker is not always better. Manufacturers will provide recommendations for choosing the thickness of the padding.

Padding Materials to Consider:
    •  Bonded polyurethane foam is a recycled material created by glueing  and pressure bonding chopped or shredded pieces of foam into one solid piece. While this is an environmentally friendly product — it can be recycled — it can produce air pockets or hard spots underneath the carpet.

    •  Prime polyurethane foam is a type of cushioning created from two liquid chemicals combined to form a solid foam that is sliced into sheets of padding. Since it is a solid piece of foam, it is less porous, more moisture resistant, devoid of hard spots. This is a more expensive option to bonded polyurethane foam.

    •  Waffle Rubber Cushion produces a soft product of molded and heat cured natural or synthetic rubber. While it is hypoallergenic and mold/mildew resistant, it will lose its resilience with age.

    •  Flat Sponge Rubber has a dense, firmer and flat surface that creates a solid base. It has a long life and provides good support for carpet so it can be thinner than foam. It is one of the most expensive pads.

    •  Felt padding is created from virgin and recycled fibers such as animal hair or jute, or from synthetic fibers — nylon, polyester, polypropylene and acrylics. Felt padding frequently is used over radiant heat or in commercial areas because it is hypoallergenic, odorless, and mold/mildew resistant.

Getting Started

Kitchen floors receive heavy family traffic and abuse from cooking materials and cleaning supplies. Kitchen floors should reflect the style of the room, including the cabinetry and appliances. The Porcelain Enamel Institute (PEI) rates tiles for hardness, which provides information for proper usage.

    •  PEI 0 Use only on walls— not strong enough for floors

    •  PEI 1 Use on floors in light traffic areas, such as bathrooms.

    •  PEI 2 Use where soft shoes will not cause abrasion, so not suitable for kitchens, entryways, etc.

    •  PEI 3 Use in residential or light commercial areas, such as offices.

    •  PEI 4 Use in regular traffic areas such as kitchens, commercial offices, restaurants and hotels

    •  PEI 5 Use in heavy traffic areas such as in public buildings, building entryways, etc. Takes abrasion and moisture well.

The Tile Council of North America tests for slip resistance with the dynamic coefficient of friction (DCOF) test. Tiles are measured for their usability if a variety of applications. Check with the DCOF rating for floor tiles to minimize slipping. Also, use small carpeting around areas of extreme moisture, such as outside the tub or door of the shower.

Floor Tiles

Vinyl tiles are versatile and easy to install. Constructed of several layers, the top wearlayer is important as it will receive the traffic from family members and pets, must resist spills and stains, and easy to maintain. Sizes range from 12-inches by 12-inches or 18-inches by 18-inches. Planks are defined as shorter in width such as 4-inches or 6 inches by 2 feet to 4 feet long.

    •  Luxury Vinyl tiles are created with an assortment of printed designs topped by a wearlayer to protect the design. The tiles — or planks depending on the size — can simulate natural stones or wood and even contain a textured wearlayer. Installed as floating or glue-down, the tiles may even be grouted to appear as ceramic or porcelain tiles.

Cork is a natural wood product that works well on kitchen floors as it is fire and insect-resistant, warm and soft to walk on. The tiles range in color from light beige to medium brown and even slightly green. Tiles are sealed for easy care and should last for decades, although they may need re-sealing in extreme cases.

Ceramic floor tiles are made from natural clay with minerals and glazed to create a moisture resistant surface. Tiles can range in size from 4-inches by 4-inches to 2-feet by 2-feet and come in a variety of colors. Mosaic tile patterns are mounted in mesh panels for easier installation. Ceramic tiles can be slippery when wet, so choose floor tiles with a slip resistant surface, or smaller tiles with lots of grout lines that will absorb the moisture and be less slippery.

Porcelain tiles are created from white clay with minerals added for strength. The floor tiles are glazed to reduce moisture absorption. Ranging in size from 4-inches by 4-inches to 2-feet by 2-feet, they come in a variety of colors. Mosaic tile patterns are mounted in mesh panels for easier installation.

    •  Wood look porcelain tile are created to look like wood planks but have the durability and ease of porcelain tile. Textured, including knots, the tiles are created in shapes and sizes to accommodate installation designs such as herringbone and basketweave.

Natural stones often are cut into tiles as large as 24-inches by 24-inches or mosaic patterns and used on kitchen floors. Installation of larger or oversized tiles may be challenging as any unevenness in the subfloor may cause cracking of the stone. Sealing will reduce staining and add life to the stone.

    •  Marble is the most commonly used natural stone, installed most frequently in white as sheets or as tiles. The veining in the marble adds an aesthetic not found in other materials; realize the veins will not match up when installed. Marble is a soft stone and will react to acids in lotions, cleaning solutions, etc. Sealing marble will reduce water absorption.

    •  Travertine is a sedimentary rock available in earthy tones. Its characteristics make it adaptable to flooring but it must be sealed to be stain resistant. Often confused with marble, it is in the same family of stone.

    •  Limestone is in the same family of natural stones as marble and travertine. The colors of limestone are warm and more uniform as light beige or off white.

    •  Quartzite is another hard stone used to create floor tiles. Honed quartzite provides a better surface on the floor. Colors are bright and vary.

    •  Granite is a dense rock making it very durable for use as flooring tiles inside and outside. It has a very low absorption rate and holds up to stains and abrasions. Granite tiles come in an assortment of colors from white to black, beige and tan to green.

Slate tiles come in a range of colors and are strong enough to be used as floor tiles in kitchens.

Wall Tiles

Ceramic tiles are made from natural clay, which is fired to take out its moisture content and then glazed to create a moisture resistant surface. Ceramic tiles are created in a multitude of colors, shapes, and sizes for making a unique bathroom installation.

Porcelain tiles are created from denser clay with minerals added for strength. Fired at higher temperatures than ceramic. Manufactured in a vast variety of sizes, shapes, and colors, porcelain tiles can be used to create personalized rooms for homeowners.

Glass tiles are created in many colors, sizes and shapes. The finish may be glossy, frosted, iridescent, matte, or brushed. Glass tiles can highlight an area by bringing attention to the surface, such as on the backsplash or over the cooktop, or can be used on the walls throughout the kitchen.

Natural Stones

    •  Marble — again white is the most frequently used because it opens up the space — is popular for walls above the counter or as a backsplash.

    •  Travertine is available in earthy tones resulting from minerals in the mix at formation. Its characteristics make it adaptable for kitchen installations.

    •  Polished Quartzite is durable and comes in a variety of colors and textures.

    •  Onyx provides the height of design due to the translucent nature of the stone. Well suited for kitchen walls.

    •  Serpentine wall tiles are more moisture resistant than marble. Because the natural stone splits, the tiles may be produced with a texture.

    •  Soapstone does not absorb moisture and is resistant to spills.

    •  Granite shows off its richness of color with small flecks at the surface. Cut into a variety of sizes, shapes and colors.

    •  Slate offers a wide palette of colors that can bring texture and character to the bathroom.

Pebbles and shells are organized into mosaics for use as backsplashes . Colors, sizes, shapes vary from mosaic panel to panel.

Metal tiles in aluminum, copper, stainless steel and bronze can add a unique feature to a kitchen installation Highlight an area, mimic the appliances or cabinet hardware even the faucets in wall tiles.  Produced as squares or three-dimensional designs or tumbled pebbles, metal tiles offer a unique asset to kitchen aesthetics.

Mosaics are created in a variety of materials and designs placed into a plastic web making them easy to install. Some mosaics may combine stone and metal to create architectural designs.

Price Considerations

Material price is the largest part of the budget.  The size of the tile as well as the type of material indicates the cost.

Maintenance of materials must also be considered. Natural stones will require sealing, and should be re-sealed periodically, especially on floors. 

Installation is another factor in the price of tiles. Professional installers should be consulted, especially for natural stones. Oversized tiles may need floor leveling prior to installation. Mosaic panels are the easiest to install for do-it-yourselfers as they are sold in plastic webbing for setting in the thinset mortar and are easy to fit as the webbing can be cut rather than the actual tile.

Vinyl floor tiles are the least costly option for floors.

Ceramic tiles on floors and walls are a great value for the investment. Easy to clean but may need re-grouting after years of use. In kitchens, the grout should be sealed so it does not trap dirt and bacteria.

Porcelain tiles are more expensive than ceramic but still a moderate budget option. Easy to clean, they may need re-grouting after years of use. In kitchens, the grout should be sealed so it does not trap dirt and bacteria.

Glass costs are based on size and shape and intricacy of a mosaic. Some glass mosaics may contain natural stone and metal for increased architectural interest.

Natural Stones are the most expensive option for flooring and wall tiles. The size of the tile will impact the price as well as the actual stone chosen. Installation costs of natural stone should be considered when looking at the budget.

Mosaics of pebbles or natural stones may not as expensive as a tile since less of the stone is actually used, depending upon the actual stone used in the design. If the mosaic contains intricately cut designs, the prices will increase.

Metal tiles when compared by square foot, and depending upon the type of metal, may be amongst the priciest option.

Getting Started

Tile is the most frequently used option for bathroom floors and walls due to the versatility of tile and the moisture in the bathroom. Tiles are rated for their durability and strength, providing information for which types of tiles are best used in different installations, from flooring to shower walls or countertops and backsplashes.

The Porcelain Enamel Institute rates tiles for hardness, which provides information for proper usage.

    •  PEI 0 Use only on walls— not strong enough for floors

    •  PEI 1 Use on floors in light traffic areas, such as bathrooms.

    •  PEI 2 Use where soft shoes will not cause abrasion, so not suitable for kitchens, entryways, etc.

    •  PEI 3 Use in residential or light commercial areas, such as offices.

    •  PEI 4 Use in regular traffic areas such as kitchens, commercial offices, restaurants and hotels

    •  PEI 5 Use in heavy traffic areas such as in public buildings, building entryways, etc. Takes abrasion and moisture well.

The Tile Council of North America tests for slip resistance with the dynamic coefficient of friction (DCOF) test. Tiles are measured for their usability if a variety of applications. Check with the DCOF rating for floor tiles to minimize slipping. Also, use small carpeting around areas of extreme moisture, such as outside the tub or door of the shower. The smaller the tile, the larger the grout area, the less chance for slipping.

Floor Tiles

Ceramic floor tiles are made from natural clay, which is fired to take out its moisture content and then glazed to create a moisture resistant surface. Tiles can range in size from 4-inches by 4-inches to 2-feet by 2-feet and come in a variety of colors. Mosaic tile patterns are mounted in mesh panels for easier installation. Ceramic tiles can be slippery when wet, so choose floor tiles with a slip resistant surface, or smaller tiles with lots of grout lines that will absorb the moisture and be less slippery.

Porcelain tiles are created from denser clay with minerals added for strength. Fired at higher temperatures than ceramic, porcelain floor tiles are stronger and more durable. Ranging in size from 4-inches by 4-inches to 2-feet by 2-feet, they come in a variety of colors. Mosaic tile patterns are mounted in mesh panels for easier installation.

Natural stones often are cut into tiles as large as 24-inches by 24-inches or mosaic patterns and used on bathroom floors. Installation of larger or oversized tiles may be challenging as any unevenness in the subfloor may cause cracking of the stone. Sealing will reduce staining and add life to the stone.

    •  Marble is the most commonly used natural stone, installed most frequently in white as sheets or as tiles. The veining in the marble adds an aesthetic not found in other materials; realize the veins will not match up when installed. Marble is a soft stone and will react to acids in lotions, cleaning solutions, etc. Sealing marble will reduce water absorption.

    •  Serpentine is a natural stone often mistaken for marble. Serpentine is available in gray, white, green, yellow, or blue-green. Since it is a different mineral structure, it is more resistant to acids and abrasions. Although, serpentine will flake so installation must be done with extra care using an epoxy-based adhesive.

    •  Onyx, another rock mistaken for marble, is a sedimentary rock that has a translucent property, making it a very desirable stone. Usually thought of as black only, onyx floor tiles are available in a milky white, black, and a variety of earth tones. It is a soft stone with little resistance to acids and abrasions.

    •  Granite is a dense rock making it very durable for use as flooring tiles inside and outside. It has a very low absorption rate and holds up to stains and abrasions. Granite tiles come in an assortment of colors from white to black, beige and tan to green.

    •  Travertine is a sedimentary rock available in earthy tones. Its characteristics make it adaptable for bathroom installations.

    •  Quartzite is another hard stone used to create floor tiles. Honed quartzite provides a better surface on the floor; polished quartzite is too slippery.

    •  Soapstone naturally is a light or darker gray with white marbling.  It is highly heat resistant and works well with radiant heat; it is not slippery when wet.

Slate tiles come in a range of colors and are strong enough to be used as floor tiles in bathrooms.

Pebble and Rock mosaics are created with tumbled pebbles and other stones to create a natural outdoor look inside.

Vinyl tiles are a less expensive alternative to natural stone or even ceramic or porcelain. Newer designs imitate natural stone or even wood and can create a spa-like ambiance desired by homeowners. Vinyl tiles are easy to clean, resilient, slip-resistant and cushiony to the step.

Wall Tiles

Ceramic tiles are made from natural clay, which is fired to take out its moisture content and then glazed to create a moisture resistant surface. Ceramic tiles are created in a multitude of colors, shapes, and sizes for making a unique bathroom installation.

Porcelain tiles are created from denser clay with minerals added for strength. Fired at higher temperatures than ceramic. Manufactured in a vast variety of sizes, shapes, and colors, porcelain tiles can be used to create personalized rooms for homeowners.

Glass tiles are created in many colors, sizes and shapes. The finish may be glossy, frosted, iridescent, matte, or brushed. Glass tiles can highlight an area by bringing attention to the surface, such as in a shower, or can be used on the walls throughout the bathroom.

Natural Stones

    •  Marble — again white is the most frequently used because it opens up the space — is popular for bathroom walls.

    •  Travertine is available in earthy tones resulting from minerals in the mix at formation. Its characteristics make it adaptable for bathroom installations.

    •  Polished Quartzite is durable and comes in a variety of colors and textures.

    •  Onyx provides the height of design due to the translucent nature of the stone. Well suited for bathroom walls.

    •  Serpentine wall tiles are ideal for use in the shower as they are moisture resistant, even more than marble. Because the natural stone splits, the tiles may be produced with a texture.

    •  Soapstone is ideal for tub and shower surrounds doe to its non-slippery nature. It does not absorb moisture and is resistant to oils and soap absorption.

Granite shows off its richness of color with small flecks at the surface. Cut into a variety of sizes, shapes and colors.

Slate offers a wide palette of colors that can bring texture and character to the bathroom.

Pebbles and rocks are organized into mosaics for use throughout the bathroom. Colors, sizes, shapes vary from mosaic panel to panel.

Metal may not be considered a bathroom material, but accent tiles in aluminum, copper, stainless steel and bronze can add a unique feature to a bathroom installation. Reflect the vanity hardware or shower and faucet metal in interesting areas of the walls.

Price Considerations

Material price is the largest part of the budget.  The size of the tile as well as the type of material indicates the cost.

Maintenance of materials must also be considered. Natural stones will require sealing, and should be re-sealed periodically, especially on floors. 

Installation is another factor in the price of tiles. Professional installers should be consulted, especially for natural stones. Oversized tiles may need floor leveling prior to installation. Mosaic panels are the easiest to install for do-it-yourselfers as they are sold in plastic webbing for setting in the thinset mortar and are easy to fit as the webbing can be cut rather than the actual tile.

Vinyl floor tiles are the least costly option for bathroom floors.

Ceramic tiles on floors and walls are a great value for the investment. Easy to clean but may need re-grouting after years of use.

Porcelain tiles are more expensive than ceramic but still a moderate budget option. Easy to clean, they may need re-grouting after years of use.

Glass costs are based on size and shape and intricacy of a mosaic. Some glass mosaics may contain natural stone and metal for increased architectural interest.

Getting Started

Cabinet lighting is the most convenient and the most attractive type of task lighting for your kitchen. Designers agree that the path to a functional, beautiful kitchen space starts with proper lights. This guide will help you make the right decision as you choose lighting options for your kitchen cabinets.

What to Consider

Tape lighting is perfect for over-cabinet illuminations, while modular lighting system will be better for dust-prone areas. Thinking about types of lights you need is important as they can make your area more convenient and look much better.

Cost Considerations

They key factor when it comes to cost consideration is the type of fixture you choose. Simple models are affordable and cost less than $100. More intricate or expensive features can cost over $1,000 when all is done.

Task vs Accent Lighting

Task lighting provides enough light for common tasks like reading, playing games, or cooking. These lights are often brighter in design and are directed at work areas, such as kitchen countertops or desks to prevent eyestrain and make it easier to focus on a particular area. Moreover, task lighting should not have distracting glares or shadows that will interfere with a workspace. Although portable lights can do the job, home designers advise using track or recessed lighting for task applications because they blend better with a modern home design.

Accent lighting focuses on a concentration of lighting in one spot or on a subject and creates a point of interest or visual interest. For example, accent lighting can be used to highlight an architectural feature. In order to properly highlight a certain spot, the accent lights should be four times brighter than the task lighting. Accent lights usually point directly at their target, but some track and recessed fixture are also suitable for accent lighting.

Types of Cabinet Lighting

LED.  LED technology is perfect for cabinet lighting. Not only it is cost-effective and easy to use, LEDs are good for warm areas (like the kitchen) because of their cooler temperature. Besides, LEDs bring energy saving benefits, as the lamp lasts much longer, reducing maintenance costs.

Puck Lights.  Puck lights mean small circular disks that can be installed in a pack that is wired together or individually. The biggest benefit of puck lights is their versatility. Puck Lighting can create a lot of light for a focal point, or even become a task light. Puck lights allow you to get pockets of light where you need it or to create uniformlighting when installing many of them in a row.

Linear Lights.  Linear lights mean rectangular lights that complement other lights and wiring – in one unit. Linear lights are available in many sizes and colors and can be used for different applications. Some of the most common options are linkable, thin lights that come with LED, xenon, or fluorescent light fixtures. Linear lights allow for many creative solutions. Very thin options can be adapted to any surface.

Tape Lights.  Most of the time you can find Tape lights sold in rolls of different lengths. These strips can be easily cut to fit your needs.

Under Cabinet Lights.  This is a must-have element of any kitchen today; under cabinet lights add another layer of depth to any area, highlighting decorative surfaces and helping with tasks like cleaning or cooking. Linear or Puck lights with wide beam coverageare perfect for under cabinet lights.

In-Cabinet Lighting.  In-Cabinet lighting helps to display decorative items in cabinets. A puck light spotlightshining from above or a linear light that ishidden behind the frame are the most popular options. You can also use sensors to turn the lights on when you open the cabinet door.

Toe Kick Lighting.  Toe Kick lighting refers to a decorative accent lighting that adds interest to the kitchen. Flexible or linear lighting is perfect to achieve consistent coverage.

Shelf Lighting.  This can either be decorative, such as open shelving, or utility lighting when more illumination is necessary, such as deep or dark cabinet spaces. Linear lighting, placed behind the frame, is quite common.

Cove Lighting.  Cove lighting is installed above cabinets around the ceiling perimeter and provides a decorative layer of light. Linear lighting is used most frequently.Closet Lighting.  Nobody likes dark closets. Closet lighting can provide the necessary illumination.

LED, Xenon, or Fluorescent

Fluorescent lamps are very efficient in providing a certain amount of light. Besides, fluorescent lights emit very little heat. This is important to remember if you are going to store anything in your cabinets. While fluorescent light fixtures cannot be dimmed, they are a good, inexpensive option.

Xenon lights are not as energy efficient as fluorescent and they produce more heat, but they also have thefull dimming capacity, and they provide a welcoming, warm light (if you like the glow of incandescent bulbs, xenon cabinet lighting is perfect for you). They are not cool to the touch, but the amount of heat produced is lower than halogen lights. However, heat output is important and must be kept in mind if you are going to install Xenon lights on the underside of food storage cabinets.

LEDs are the most energy-efficient option. They are cool to the touch, but also more expensive and give white light instead of a warm glow. However, some kitchen designs can greatly benefit from the blueish light of LEDs.

Recessed or Surface Mount

You can use light fixtures that mount on the surface under the cabinets for easy installation, or those that are installed into the bottom of your cabinets for a seamless look. Linear lights should be mounted on the surface, so you do not need large cuts into the structure. Some people assume that non-recessed lights will be jutting out unattractively. But if you do not specifically look for them, you will not be able to see them. If you still think that lights can be seen, add a small vanity panel to the bottom of the cabinet to completely hide them.

If you want to achieve the clean look of a flat bottom of your cabinets, choose recessed under cabinet lighting. Keep in mind that most of the time recessed options are puck lights. It is easier to recess circular, small puck lights than large fixtures.

Wiring and Powering Cabinet Lighting

When selecting cabinet lighting, it is important to think about the power source of your lights. Battery powered lighting can be the easiest solution, but you will be replacing the batteries quite often, which can be time-consuming, as cabinet lighting is hard to reach. Hard-wired is a good alternative. While wiring takes more effort during installation, once done, you will not have to bother with your cabinet lighting.

Cabinet lighting can be sold in packs, wired together, and with plugs included. To use this lighting, you will need an outlet somewhere inside your cabinets. Outlets that you may have for a built-in microwave can also be used for cabinet lighting. Just plug-in and enjoy!

If your wiring is not pre-wired to any plug, you will have to hard-wire your lighting. It is strongly recommended to get a professional to do it for you. Electricians can connect your cabinet lighting together and then hard-wire them so all wires are hidden. They can also connect your lighting to a switch for your convenience. If you still want to hard-wire yourself, call your lighting manufacturer for advice.

Voltage

You also need to think about the voltage of your cabinet lighting. Low voltage cabinet lights operate from a lower voltage supply (12 or 24 volts). While each option can work great for your kitchen, choosing the correct one will depend entirely on your preferences.

Line Voltage.  These are high quality, cheaper initial cost, and easy to install. They work off the voltage supply in your home, so you do not have to wire your lights to a transformer. You can connect them to power. Besides, line voltage lights can be used with standard dimmers instead of those made specifically for low voltage lights.

Low Voltage.  There are several actions that have to be completed before installing low voltage cabinet lights. You should have a transformer to convert your voltage supply to a lower number, and if you are going to use accessories (such as dimmers) they will have to be compatible with your lighting system. However, they have two important benefits:theylast longer and use less energy. Besides, low voltage bulbs are smaller – so you have more fixture options to choose from.

Color Rendering Index

You should not confuse Color Rendering Index, or CRI, with the color temperature. CRI does not measure the color of light, but rather the ability to render colors accurately. The scale ranges from 1 to 100 (the sun). A CRI of 85 is perfect for cabinet lighting.

It is important to consider the CRI when choosing cabinet lights because it can affect the entire look of your kitchen. Xenon lights have a CRI of 100, LED and fluorescent has a CRI range around 85-90.

Getting Started

The use of incandescent bulbs across the US began decreasing the moment Congress decided to pass Energy Independence and Security Act (EISA) of 2007. This act laid down some strict rules and standards in the energy sector with an aim of making energy greener, cost effective and long lasting. This was done in style in such a way that all inefficient bulbs had to be replaced with more efficient bulbs capable of consuming minimum energy for cost effective purposes. Environmental consideration was also a factor as this act came into effect. These standards meant that all incandescent bulbs and all close relatives were to be phased out if they failed to follow the set standards. This move led to a decrease in the users of incandescent bulbs across the US with time.

This was a change that brought good news in the world of lighting because CFLs and LEDs came and a good number of people fell in love with them because of their ability to consume minimum energy which meant they were cost effective. With these types of bulbs everyone now has a variety of options to choose from. There are very many nice options available in-terms of the best bulbs for lighting which therefore make it a bit challenging when it comes to finding the right bulb. The other factor likely to determine whether a person is ready to do as EISA mandates is the willingness of an individual to move on from old bulbs known for excessive consumption of energy to the new bulbs well known for saving energy hence pocket friendly. Let’s now look at some of the considerations when planning to buy a light bulb.

What to Consider

Consider the fitting and shape of your bulb

This is an important aspect that must be considered when buying a light bulb. Don’t be like other people who just buy blindly without considering this important info about light bulbs and fittings. The shape and type of fitting determines a lot when installing a bulb. There are very many options to choose from when it comes to light bulbs and different fittings. Choose a bulb with the right fitting which makes it easy when it comes to installation. You can as well consider your preference when it comes to fitting your bulb. Does the fitting you settle on the best whether indoors or outdoors.

The other factor you must consider when buying bulbs is the shape. The shape of the bulb goes hand in hand with the fitting. We have a representation of the most common shapes you can choose from below.  However, you can always do your research to find out the different types of bulbs available in the market. What we have provided here are the most common types of fittings that you are likely to get whenever you want to buy a bulb for your home office or other household needs.

The different shapes of light bulbs available provide different angles and spread of light ranging from a narrow light to a 360o spread of light. Apart from considering the shape and fitting of the bulb when switched on, you also need to consider the other side of the coin especially when the light is switched off. How will the bulbs look when they are not on? This is something you have to consider when buying light bulbs.

Annual Running Costs

There are many CFLs out there which are affordable and bright enough to give your household the best lighting and tone. Although earlier CFLs used to be dimmer, this has changed recently and CFLs have improved in the past few years. Studies indicate that they are about four times brighter than incandescent bulbs. However, not everyone prefers CFLs considering the quality of light they give. Compared to LED bulbs, CFLs are a much cheaper option. The running cost of a lighting bulb is something you need to consider when buying a bulb for your household, kitchen or bathroom.

Go for the best light bulb color and brightness

Before going for a light bulb make sure you know the type of light you need. This therefore means you must understand brightness requirements. This can as well translate into the output of light or wattage. Like in the old days when incandescent bulbs ruled the lighting world, a period when watts were considered while buying a bulb, today you’ll find bulbs which use less energy but produce the quality brightness. Wattage, Kelvin scale and CRI are factors you need to understand as you plan to get the right bulb. Let’s find out how these terms determine the brightness and color of a lighting bulb.

Watts

Gone are the days when brightness produced by light bulbs was measured in watts. Wattage was used as a measure of power when nearly every household was filled with incandescent bulbs. The introduction of energy saving bulbs brought a new measure of brightness produced by bulbs. Today the brightness level of bulbs is measured in what is known lumens. The brighter the bulb the higher the number of lumens used.

A bed-sized table lamp with 400 watts would be appropriate for that matter and it is recommended that the suitable bulb for a living room should be able to produce between 1500-3000 lumens.

    •  Kelvin scale. The Kelvin scale is normally used to measure the color of light. The temperature produced by a light bulb can also be measured by a Kelvin scale. Many manufactures usually indicate the color temperatures on the packaging of a light bulb. Manufacturers indicate the color temperature that a light bulb will emit when switched on.

The color of light produced by a bulb is an important consideration when buying a light bulb because color affects so many things including mood and several items in the room.

    •  Color Rendering Index (CRI). Most bulbs are normally given a CRI score. CRI can be defined as the ability of a source of light to represent a variety of colors. For instance you want a bulb which produces light that makes your vegetables look green and not some other strange color. Look at the following images for more explanation of good and poor CRI.

    •  Buy light bulbs as per your needs. Why exactly do you need to buy light bulbs?  How can you find out the right lighting bulb as per your needs? Well, you first have to do a detailed research and go through different light bulb reviews and guides. Choose the bulb you need and do a background check to find out whether it meets your requirements. You don’t want to buy a bulb which will cause problems and cost you a lot yet there are very many bulbs which can meet what you expect.

Directionality

When being manufactured some light bulbs end up with in-built hardware which can block projection of light reflecting it upwards. It is always advisable to go for a bulb that spreads light in all directions. For a person who needs a bedside light for reading or lighting a section in a room it is advisable to consider directionality of the light. Look for a bulb capable of giving 360o light output.

Which type of light do you want between warm and cold?

When buying lighting bulbs especially the LEDs, you must always consider whether you want warm or cold light. The standard temperature of light is normally measured in ‘Kelvin’. When a bulb produces very orange light it means the Kevin number is low. When it comes to indoor lighting, people prefer a slightly yellow glow or sometimes what is known as warm white. Slightly yellow lighting can be good in a kitchen and bathroom.

Types of Lightbulbs

LEDs

When these bulbs arrived they were a game changer and other types of bulbs such as CFLs and incandescent found it hard gaining ground. LEDs are cost effective in such a way that they are capable of using only a fraction of the wattage that incandescent bulbs use. The wattage of these types of bulbs is normally between 4W and 22W. Manufacturers approximate that they can be used for 20,000 hours.

LED bulbs do not burn out like incandescent bulbs normally do. Instead of burning out, LED bulbs normally experience a decrease in amount of lumens which makes them dimmer with time. They take long before finally becoming dimmer. They are better than incandescent bulbs because of the low amount of energy they consume.

However, it does not mean that LEDs do not fail or do not have a disadvantage. Apart from their cost, LEDs are actually a better option when it comes to light bulbs.

CFLs

They came and replaced incandescent bulbs but unfortunately a better option arrived later in the name of LEDs. Although not many people received CFLs warmly due to the white light they produce. People preferred the warm tone produced by incandescent bulbs. Their approximated average life expectancy is 10, 000 hours.

The whitish color that CFLs produce can be described as less pleasing aesthetically as some users claimed back in the days. Some people believe that switching them on and off regularly reduce their life expectancy. There is also this general belief that CFLs normally take a second or two to light fully after switching on.

There has been advancements in the technology used in producing CFLs since 2007 when EISA was signed into law. Today you can find an ‘instant on’ CFL and a variety in color options including dimmable ones.

The most common downside about CFLs is the fact that they do not last for long enough. Using them in outdoor activities is not recommended because they can sometimes fail to turn on when temperatures are extremely down.  However, this should not worry you because actually some cold-cathode CFLs can be used in temperatures as low as -10F.

Incandescent bulbs

Their wattage lies between 40W and 150W and they can last up-to 1000 hours. EISA actually never banned the use of incandescent bulbs but what it actually did was setting energy standards and explaining the minimum acceptable lumens per watt recommended for a light bulb. The EISA act expected manufacturers to produce more efficient incandescent bulbs. There is actually more room for improvement of incandescent bulbs in-terms of energy consumption.

Halogens

These are listed under incandescent bulbs with halogens trapped inside. There is also a filament which burns after these halogens recycle tungsten gas to make the filament bright hence producing light. These bulbs can be useful to any individual who is ready to replace bulbs often and users who prefer using incandescent rather than LEDs and CFLs.

Important Manufacturer Information

Apart from the information which has been covered about light bulbs and what to consider when planning to get the best light bulb, it is also important to settle on a bulb that you’ll enjoy for a very long time. Manufacturers are required to include important information about their product on the packaging of bulbs so that users can find it easy when choosing which bulb to buy.

Federal Trade Commission clearly gave out the right information to be included in packaging of bulbs and any manufacture who defies this requirement will be obviously facing the full force of the law. The packaging of light bulbs should include important information such as color temperature, lumens and estimated costs and any other important information that Federal Trade Commission believes is right.